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Ok, so I can't surf (yet? :-) but i have lately begun body-surfing and boogie-boarding . The result (besides salt-water up the nose and in the ears, and a little bit down the lungs maybe...) is awe, bewilderment, excitement, joy, exhaustion and exhilaration from the sheer twisting, turning, overwhelming power of the wave. Its just water, and yet... it is amazing. A little gravity from far away, a few fish, a little chaos theory, a lot of fluid dynamics (come on, i'm a freaking rocket scientist... ok, not exactly, but i studied this stuff for 4 years), and VOILA: waves crashing on beautiful beaches.
But, you know, maybe all of creation is just dumb luck.
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